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Snag-Proof™ Moss Master Tournament Frog 

1/4 oz - Black 6400
1/4 oz - Green 6402
1/4 oz - Chartreuse 6405
1/4 oz - White 6407
1/2 oz - Black
1/2 oz - Green
1/2 oz - Chartreuse
1/2 oz - White

Stren Magnathin 4 - 8 Pound Test Fishing Line, 330 Yards

Stren Magnathin 10 - 16 Pound Test Fishing Line, 330 Yards

Stren Magnathin 330 Yards 6 to 8 Pound Test Fishing Line

Stren Magnathin 12 to 16 Pound Test Fishing Line

South Bend Intruder 7' Medium Action Popping Rod

South Bend 7' Medium Action 1 Piece Popping Casting Rod
This South Bend 7' Medium-Action 1-Piece Popping Rod is designed for popping and cranking. Its 1-Piece design provides you with a strong rod.  

• My first rod will be loaded with clear 20-pound test with a Snag-Proof™ Pro Tournament Frog.
• The second rod will be rigged with 10-pound test attached with a Japanese Rico Suave Lure.
• Finally, my last rod will be rigged with 6-pound test and a popper or chugging type lure.

In the following paragraphs I will outline the techniques and desired habitat.

Emergent grass or moss; I typically will start early with my Snag-Proof™ Pro Tournament Frog working the frog so slow it usually brings on complaints from my fishing companions. To best describe the technique I use and have the best success with may sound strange. Since I am still working heavier vegetation I use the Stren™ Magna Thin™ enjoying the smaller diameter which eliminates line slapping on top of the vegetation and on the water as your lure works it’s way back to the boat. Now to the different part make ultra long cast, work the lure along the edges of the blowholes and openings in the vegetation. Avoid working the lure directly into the water; get the lure as close to the opening's edge, making the lure visible on the edge of openings. This typically brings on strikes from bass that just cannot take the temptation to sit still. Unfortunately, I have experienced a 25% strike and catch ratio. The other 75% is looking at the bass flopping atop the vegetation working his way back or toward an opening. Many times I have had to cut my way back to the fish to get him back in the water. When you do get the fish hooked set the hook and jerk him like your life depends on it or you will have to go after him anyway. My final tip would be adding 4 or 5 glass tube bait rattles inside your Snag-Proof™ Pro Tournament Frog and exaggerate the popping as you skim the edges of the openings and blowholes.

Japanese Rico Suave Lure; I can tell right now I do not know where you can find them right now. At one time these lures were so productive on Lake Mead, Lake Mohave and Lake Havasu tackle shops were selling them for $125.00 a piece. Here in these parts anglers would look at you like you have a screw loose. Understand that when a tournament like the WON BASS Miller High Life™ U.S. Open comes to town serious anglers do not leave any areas untouched. When the lure hit the shelves it was about $25.00 due to limited number you could get into the states. Then when they started selling tackle shop owner’s began paying higher prices just to reserve them resulting in a price hike to the angler. As an official of the tournament I pre-fished and taught each of these four individuals my techniques. By tournament time I had made $3000.00 dollars and had $2000.00 in these lures. My application of this lure is primarily in the open water and again requires a monotonous retrieve that will absolutely anger your boater or non-boater. In 1996 four of the anglers above paid me a ridiculous amount of money to show them twitch, half a reel, twitch, half a reel followed by swimming one crank of the reel. One 60-foot cast should take you just about ten minutes to get it in over rocky and flooded brush. The lure needs look like it is trying sneak out of the open water of the cove, or if your breaking a little lure wake you’re going way to fast. My final tip would be to use 6-pound test fluorocarbon line and concentrating on rocky riprap or shoals.

Popping or chugging with 6-pound test is a scary application in anybody’s book, or should I say boat. There is no real change in technique.  Rather, it's just the size of the line and once again slowing down the retrieve to a snails pace. The fish have seen just about every retrieve possible by the end of summer so the stopping or dead sticking the popper/chugger can be very effective. Once again eliminate the line slap on the water and cast that bad boy out so far your afraid you will loose the line from the spool. Zell Rowland once told me to get the best action from a popper you need to use a spinning reel. Several months later I watched one of his shows and he was using a casting setup. So, what ever you want use, it is important once again to avoid and eliminate line slap. Typically, I dress the tail hook with a custom tied Mylar and long white tail feathers. Red truly does bring on more strikes but then again so does orange here in the Midwest. My final tip will simply make you cringe as my suggestion is to drop down to 4-pound test and stay away from any exposed brush. Additionally, placing one of Storm™ Lures' adhesive lead spots to the tail changing the presentation to resemble a pencil popper. Steadily rocking the lure to the boat can also bring on vicious strikes.

In conclusion, finessing a topwater lure breaks down to basically disguising or eliminating your line as much as possible. Throw what ever you have tied on so far.  Your shoulder hurts by day's end. Radically slow down the presentation to a ridiculous pace. Many anglers spout off about when times get tough that I slow down the presentation of my lures. When was the last time you saw any of the good ole boys slow dancing a topwater lure across the surface of any body of water. You have not, and most likely will not, because they cannot cover as much water. Team fishing with my partner I could get the fish worked up with as many as 20 fish following close behind.  This  allows my partner to cast behind the school and speed crank a worm or tube just below the topwater lure causing an eruption often time getting us both a little fishy to catch.  (edited by Jim@USSFN)